Trip & First Day

TRAVELLING FROM VIENNA TO BUDONGO

After missing the plane on Saturday, my father and I made sure that we would get to the airport early enough to check in and to eat some lunch before my take-off. Fortunately, they did not seem to mind the few kilograms above the limit of 20kg when I checked in. I was afraid I'd have to reduce my luggage, which would have been no fun, considering I am on the road for the next three months. After receiving my birthday gift, the book "Birds of Eastern Africa" from Tina in the last minute, it was time to head on the plane to Cairo. This flight, as well as the flight to Entebbe went just fine. Even though I expected it, I was still stunned by the warm humid air in Uganda. A nice taxi driver took me to Kampala, the capital, where the plan was to take the post bus to Masindi. But since I arrived at 4:00 am and my bus wasn't leaving until 8:00 am, I needed some place to spend the early morning hours. Thanks to Laurence, the cabbie, I got to a hotel near the post office, where I grabbed some breakfast. There was also a night club next door, which might explain the 5 ladies approaching me, asking whether I needed some lovin' :)
Well, a few cups coffee later I grabbed my huge bag and my other luggage and headed down to the bus departure. The vehicle itself was somewhat funny-looking, but I had no idea that this would beat any other offroad vehicle when being used. Charles, a police officer trainer whom I met while in line for tickets told me to come sit in the back, which was not the smartest decision. While the roads to get out of town were already adventure they were smooth rides compared to some of the country hole assemblies called highways. I don't know if any of you remember the spaceshuttle ride at the fair. Well, this is the real-life version of that. My behind is still sore from constantly bumping onto the seat for about 2h of the 6h ride to Masindi. They call this the African massage. In addition to humans, we were also transporting a goat in the luggage compartment below, as well as a chicken and incredible amounts of banana. Every once in a while, the bus will stop at a major intersection and is immediately surrounded by young people selling grilled bananas, meat, water, carpets, scarfs and tons of other stuff. Quite impressive! The landscapes and towns we travelled through were an incredible sight. Most of Uganda is a plateau at about 1000m above sea level, so it appears flat, sometimes interrupted by small hills or termite mounds. Grassland and open brush dominate, but there are many tall trees as well. Just on the trip of these 200km or so, I saw twenty or more bird species that I have never encountered before. The birding list will follow later, but the crowned crane, the large crested eagle are just two highlights. So after six hours we finally pulled into Masindi. Due to my horrible information managment I did not have the number of the camp driver with me. This would have been a major problem, if it wasn't for Charles and an other guy named Solomon. They got off the bus with me, took me to a place called traveler's corner. Then I got a SIM card for my cell and called just about everyone I know that has anything to do with the chimps here. After a while I got a hold of the number of Marion ( I got it from a Kampala taxi driver...) and now things were all set for me to get to Sonso. She sent me the number of Sam, a cab driver who knows how to get to the forest and 1h later, we pulled into the royal mile, the road through the forest that leads to the camp.
Marion welcomed me, showed me around and informed me about a bbq that was taking place that night. The manager of the Kyniara sugar plant was throwing a good-bye party. But more about that later.
The camp is built in the area of an old sawmill. It consists of four main buildings, three of which are being used and inhabited by researchers. The largest building belongs to the local camp staff and their families. The grassy area of the camp is surrounded by tall trees that just hint at the might of the Budongo Forest. There are two pit latrines, a shower, a little pavillon for social activities and of course working rooms as well as a small laboratory. The water we use comes out of collection tanks around camp, power is generated by solar panels on the roofs. Fortunately we do have an internet connection that is quite reliable. It is not quite clear what room I will settle in, but I will try to post a picture as soon as I know. The other people at camp are Zinta (Oxford), Marie (St. Etienne) and Ania (Stirling). Roman, the asst. director, his wife Cathy and their children Gemma and Finn live a few minutes away at a forestry college. The staff on site includes Sarah, Zefa, William and many more (I am really bad with names, but I will make sure to mention them, as soon as I can remember).
So after settling in and taking a 1h nap, we were off to the Kyniara Sugar Mill, a large company close to camp. The director is about to leave towards his home in Mauritius and therefore invited people over for a goodbye. Additionally, Cat and Marion were leaving camp. We enjoyed an incredible bbq, where you could combine the ingredients for a grill-stirfry. Later on, one of the managers entertained everyone with his guitar. Some of the volunteers, that work for Zinta in other sites were also present. Therefore this was a great opportunity to get to know some of the people working on chimps around Masindi.
Today I got to sleep in, explore camp and the surroundings a bit and then I accompanied Zefa and Roman to Masindi to do some shopping and so on. In the trees around the camp I already saw red-tailed and black and white colobus, blue monkeys and a bunch of birds (list will follow later). On the way to Masindi, we encountered a small troop of 10 baboons. But the first 24h have already provided me with a glimpse of the incredible biodiversity of Budongo.
In Masindi, Roman took me to the market (pix will follow). This place is just buzzing of people, colours and smells. Fresh produce next to dry meat, chickens awaiting their destiny, piles of tomatoes and bananas, old and new pans, knifes, pots, colourful shirts and curious looks from many people. "Musungu" is what they call white people. Some kids will run up to you, point at you and repeat it over and over. But not in an unfriendly way- actually quite the opposite. Smiles everywhere, children waving their hands, a greeting nod from the old men. The warmth of the people here could serve as a model for the stiff europeans back home.... After an hour of shopping we moved on to other places and then returned to the traveler's corner. After a good lunch I started a conversation with a guy on the next table. He turned out to be a music producer for local musicians (www.chillumwoodssound.com). Hopefully I get to see his recording studio and some local bands while I am here. Now I am back at camp and will go for a dusk birding tour. Soon you will get the first birding list.....